Pastis, the brainchild of restaurant veterans Keith McNally (Balthazar) and Stephen Starr (Le Diplomate), has been a hot ticket since its late January opening in D.C.'s Union Market. The restaurant's pedigree – it's a New York darling that reopened in 2019 – combined with Le Diplomate's local popularity, has ensured a steady stream of curious customers.
A Familiar Vibe with a Local Twist
Step inside Pastis and you'll be greeted by a mirrored interior reminiscent of its bustling sibling, Le Diplomate. The recently revamped New York edition also served as inspiration. Wooden chairs and maroon-red booths create a classic atmosphere, while the friendly service is both efficient and approachable. The covered outdoor patio offers a cozy escape, but its location in the middle of an industrial parking lot might not appeal to everyone. How the space will handle D.C.'s sweltering summers remains to be seen.
D.C. Style on Display
On a recent Friday evening, the early crowd skewed towards classic D.C. style – think button-down shirts, jeans, and unfussy dresses. Cardigans and the occasional baseball cap completed the look, with a smattering of crop tops and statement earrings adding a touch of individuality. For a more adventurous take on fashion, neighboring food hall La Cosecha seemed to be the place to be.
A Menu of European Classics
Pastis's menu leans heavily on French fare, with some dishes mirroring those at Le Diplomate. Escargot ($20/$36), foie gras terrine ($16), and lobster frites ($72) share the spotlight with more broadly European-inspired options. Daily specials like Monday's wiener schnitzel ($39) add an element of surprise. We highly recommend the perfectly cooked bar steak ($33) and the crispy skate grenobloise with capers ($29). If you're looking for a burst of color, however, the classic dishes like chicken Kiev ($36) and the pierogi appetizer ($13), while delicious, could benefit from a more vibrant presentation.
Frites Done Right
Pastis's take on French fries is on the thicker side compared to the traditional thin frites. However, they make up for it in crispness, heat, and flavor.
Where to Sit
The spacious bar area, while positioned somewhat oddly in the center of the dining room, was buzzing with activity on Friday night. Patrons enjoyed glasses of Brut rosé and martinis, including a delightful mini-martini with a hint of pickle brine. Just be aware that the martinis are shaken, so expect lingering ice shards.
Save Room for Dessert
Don't miss the Vietnamese coffee milkshake ($10) – it's an unexpected star on the dessert menu. A service mix-up resulted in our table receiving a delightful assortment of petit fours, reminiscent of New York-style rainbow cookies. These wouldn't be a bad addition to the permanent menu!