Silver Spring's culinary landscape is undergoing a delightful transformation, with the beloved All Set Restaurant & Bar embarking on a significant revitalization as it approaches its tenth anniversary. This isn't just a simple refresh; it's a full-fledged reboot, fueled by the arrival of celebrity pastry chef Kareem "Mr. Bake" Queeman, a revamped menu, and a renewed commitment to the community.
All Set, a staple of the Silver Spring dining scene, is poised to enter its second decade with a burst of fresh energy, thanks in large part to the addition of Queeman. A 2023 James Beard Award semifinalist for outstanding pastry chef, Queeman brings a touch of celebrity sparkle and undeniable talent to the restaurant's dessert offerings. His impressive resume includes appearances on national television shows like NBC's "Today" show, the Cooking Channel's "Bake It 'Til You Make It," and FOX5's "Cooking with Como." In 2018, he even claimed victory on the Discovery Family Channel's "Bake It Like Buddy" with his delectable sweet potato spice cake.
Queeman's presence at All Set is more than just a celebrity endorsement; it's a strategic partnership that elevates the restaurant's culinary experience. His Harlem roots and expertise in crafting comforting, yet sophisticated desserts perfectly complement All Set's New England-inspired cuisine. The introduction of the classic Boston cream pie, a vanilla sponge cake layered with vanilla pastry cream and topped with chocolate ganache, is a testament to this harmonious blend. The recent Pi Day unveiling of his Whoopie pie, with its cake-like cookies and creamy filling, further hints at the delicious treats to come.
"It fits right into line to the baking style that I do already, so it wasn’t hard for me to insert myself into the thread of the restaurant and what Ed and Jen and the rest of the team have already cultivated over the years," Queeman explains. This seamless integration speaks volumes about the shared vision and collaborative spirit driving All Set's renaissance.
Beyond the sweet additions, owners Ed Reavis and Jen Meltzer have meticulously revamped the entire menu, focusing on enhancing existing favorites and introducing exciting new dishes. Reavis, with his culinary expertise honed at the Capital Grille, has taken the seafood pizza to new heights, using a 24-hour pre-fermented biga yeast starter for a distinct flavor and topping it with a generous medley of Maine lobster, crab, shrimp, caramelized leeks, seafood mornay, and Old Bay. The Mediterranean branzino entree has been simplified, allowing the fish's natural flavors to shine with citrus gremolata, olive oil, and garlic. Even the beloved crab cakes have received a significant upgrade, becoming larger and featuring a crown of jumbo lump crab meat, resulting in a dramatic increase in sales.
Recognizing the importance of value and community, All Set has introduced a generous happy hour, running Mondays through Saturdays from 3 p.m. until closing. This move, prompted by customer feedback, positions All Set as a competitive destination for those seeking a relaxed atmosphere and affordable drinks. "My regulars would tell me, ‘Look, I love you, but I can get the same drink half price. Around the corner. So, what are you going to do about that?’ I just finally gave in," Reavis admits. This responsiveness to customer needs underscores All Set's commitment to its loyal patrons.
The story of All Set's revitalization is also a story of friendship and collaboration. Reavis and Meltzer's 15-year journey, which began at the Capital Grille, has now intersected with Queeman's, whom they met at Le Fantome Food Hall in Riverdale. This shared experience, where Queeman operated Mr. Bake Sweets and Reavis and Meltzer ran Money Muscle BBQ, has forged a strong bond and paved the way for their current partnership.
The physical space of All Set is also undergoing a transformation. Renovations, scheduled to be completed in April, will add 10 additional seats to the booth area, create a semi-private dining space, and introduce an upgraded gray and blue color scheme. The restaurant will close briefly on April 7 to finalize these enhancements, ensuring a fresh and inviting atmosphere for its patrons.
Looking ahead, Reavis and Meltzer have ambitious plans for the future. They are preparing to open a brick-and-mortar location for Money Muscle BBQ next to All Set, further expanding their culinary footprint in Silver Spring. Discussions are also underway to feature Queeman's popular banana pudding on the Money Muscle BBQ menu and at Fryer's Roadside, another of their restaurants.
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The culmination of these efforts will be All Set's 10-year anniversary celebration on April 11, featuring $10 food and drink specials throughout the weekend. This milestone is particularly significant as Reavis and Meltzer have recently signed a lease for another 10 years, solidifying their commitment to the Silver Spring community.
"I kind of sense like a renaissance happening with us as far as we’re evolving to make sure we survive and not only survive, but thrive," Reavis says. "I’m excited about the future and I’m pouring everything I’ve got into it right now." This sentiment captures the spirit of All Set's revitalization, a testament to the power of collaboration, innovation, and a deep-rooted passion for creating exceptional dining experiences. With Queeman's sweet touch, a revamped menu, and a renewed focus on community, All Set is poised to embark on a new chapter of success, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of Silver Spring's vibrant culinary scene.